Mount Rainier Climb Dates


Ski Mountaineering Routes

Furher Finger                                 29 April - 1 May 2016

The approach is from Paradise. Follow the Skyline trail for about a mile to the Glacier Vista (6300 feet). Descend to the Nisqually Glacier. Cross the glacier. On the other side of the glacier there is a snow chute that is marked on the right side by a large rock buttress known as the Fan. Gain the Wilson Glacier via the chute. Continue up 25 to 40 degree slope. Establish camp below the Wilson Headwall (about 9200 feet) on the west side of the Wilson Glacier near a large rock buttress. From camp at 9200 feet, traverse the Wilson Glacier to the right below the Wilson Headwall. Fuhrer Finger is a wide couloir with an hourglass funnel on the eastern face of the Headwall at 10,000 feet. Climb the couloir (30-45 degrees and 2000 feet) and gain the west side of the Nisqually Glacier. Follow edge to the top of the Wilson Headwall at 13,300 feet. From here the slope becomes easier to the crater rim. This is proclaimed by many as the fastest way to the summit.

Tahoma Glacier                             13 May - 16 May 2016
Hike up road approximately a half hour, to Tahoma Creek Trail. Ascend Tahoma Creek Trail and turn north on Wonderland Trail and ascend to 5,600 ft. Turn northeast on moraine to Camp I on crest of Emerald Ridge between north and south lobes of the Tahoma Glacier at 6,100 ft. From Camp I to Camp II, ascend a series of zigzags. Initially ascend southern side of Tahoma Glacier to about 7,200 ft; then gradual, diagonal traverse to opposite side of glacier to about 9,000 ft. Continue traversing south again to near glacier side at about 10,000 ft, then back north again towards other side. Camp II recommended on this last traverse where safe from serac fall at about 10,440 ft, roughly parallel to Saint Andrews Rock). Finish last north traverse from Camp II to side of glacier, ascending seracs as required to cross crevasse moat to about 10,800 ft, then traverse south to about 11,000 ft. Turn and ascend north to about 11,200 ft to enter sickle. Ascend sickle on north side of glacier keeping left of icy ridges to a plateau at about 12,600 ft. Thence make a gradual rising traverse south to the summit cone.

Standard Routes
Disappointment Glacier                  27 May - 29 May 2016

From Camp Muir follow obvious traverse of the upper Cowlitz and scramble the Cathedral Rocks Ridge to gain access to the Ingraham Glacier (10,500 ft). Traverse the glacier (Ingraham Flats) to the lower southern base of Disappointment Cleaver. This traverse should be done as quickly as possible due to overhanging seracs. The route onto the Cleaver is approximately 300 ft above the Cleaver's nose. Continue to the top of the Cleaver (12,300 ft), and climb as directly to the east crater rim as crevasses will allow. To gain the true summit, scramble down into the crater and cross directly to the west crater rim. The summit register is just below and northeast of the true summit (14,411 ft) by a large boulder.

Kautz Glacier                               10 June - 13 June 2016
Approach the same as Furher Finger and from the end of the Wilson chute head up and west to the Turtle Snowfield. From the west edge of the Turtle Snowfield ascend snow or volcanic scree (late season) to a westward facing chimney at approximately 11,000 ft. The chimney may be marked by old fixed lines. Rappel 25 ft to the edge of a south facing gully. Traverse the gully and then continue traversing westward across easy ramps a couple hundred feet to the base of the ice pitches. The technical part of the climb can be tackled as two long pitches varying from 40 to 50 degrees with a section of less steep ice in between. Ice pinnacles, more prominent to climber's right, make for interesting climbing. From the flat area at the top of the ice pitches, either ascend toward Point Success and then toward the summit, or ascend to the top of Wapowety Cleaver and follow the upper Nisqually to the summit. Either alternative may involve serious crevasse problems in late season calling for careful routefinding.

Emmons Glacier                         23 June - 26 June 2016
From White River Campground (4,400 ft), hike 3.5 mi to Glacier Basin (5,935 ft). Continue on way trails for another mile to base of the Inter Glacier (7,000 ft). Rope up here. Ascend 1,500 ft up the middle of the Inter Glacier, bearing slightly southeast to reach the glacier rim (9,000 ft) at Camp Curtis. Do a traversing descent to the Emmons Glacier and ascend the Emmons to Camp Schurman (9,500 ft) at the base of Steamboat Prow. Arrive early for good campsite (hut is for emergencies only). From Camp Schurman, follow a smooth snow slope called "The Corridor" slightly east, to about 12,000 ft. Here the glacier becomes heavily crevassed and offers many variations in routes to the crater rim. The usual routes go straight up and left, or bear right and across to the saddle between the true summit, Columbia Crest, and Liberty Cap. The actual summit (14,411 ft) is on the far west side of the crater rim. The summit register is just below at a large boulder.

Tahoma Glacier to Emmons Glacier Traverse
                                                          1 July - 4 July 2016


See Tahoma Glacier route description above and descend via Emmons glacier as described above.

*** See Route Descriptions above.

Kautz Glacier                              21 July - 24 July 2016

Disappoint Cleaver              5 August - 7 August 2016

Emmons Glacier               19 August - 22 August 2016

Disappointment Cleaver
                                  2 September - 4 September 2016

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