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Tuesday, September 20, 2016

FY 2017 Climbing Calender

2017 Climbing Calendar

For more information or to send the registration for email us at JBLMalpineclub@gmail.com
You can request registration by filling out the registration request form (located in the page tab here on the blog) and emailing it. We will register people in the order that the requests are received. Thank you for your interest in the JBLM Alpine Program and I look forward to climbing with you all!

Trips are color coded for identification
Red = Rock
Green = Alpine
Blue = Ski
Yellow = Ice
Purple = Scramble

Sep 16 Sep 18: Smith Rock Weekend $300
This is where it all began. With greats like Alan Watts and the late Todd Skinner, Smith Rock is the sport climbing Mecca for the NW US! Over 1,000 routes, mostly bolted sport climbs, some Aid, and many good traditional climbs. This place is home to some of the hardest routes on earth, yet still offers challenges to climbers of all abilities. Don't miss the Monkey's Face. Three days of amazing climbing tailored for any skill level. Whether you are just learning or want a guide to help you on those multi- pitch routes this is the place. Ground transportation, technical climbing gear, and camping included!

Oct 1 Oct 2: Roktober Fest Leavenworth 3 Day Climb $195
Join us for a trip to beautiful Leavenworth Washington’s Icicle canyon for a three day rock climbing trip. The rock is dark granite with lots of slabs and cracks. Most routes along Icicle Road are within walking distance. There are routes for all ability levels here leads as well as mellow topropes. One favorite is Snow Creek Wall about 2 miles up the Snow Creek trail offering longer climbs and longer approach. After a day of climbing we will head up to town and enjoy the opening days of Oktober Fest, Leavenworth’s famous fall celebration. Ground transportation, technical climbing gear, and camping included!

Oct 7 9: Roktober Fest Leavenworth 3 Day Climb $275
Join us for a trip to beautiful Leavenworth Washington’s Icicle canyon for a three day rock climbing trip. The rock is dark granite with lots of slabs and cracks. Most routes along Icicle Road are within walking distance. There are routes for all ability levels here leads as well as mellow topropes. One favorite is Snow Creek Wall about 2 miles up the Snow Creek trail offering longer climbs and longer approach. After a day of climbing we will head up to town and enjoy the opening days of Oktober Fest, Leavenworth’s famous fall celebration. Ground transportation, technical climbing gear, and camping included!

Oct 10 16: Moab Utah Desert Tower Climbing $1900
The Fisher Towers are one of the most outstanding scenic features of Utah's Colorado Riverway. These rock pinnacles soar above a maze of red and purple hued canyons. Join us for an amazing trip to climb some of these famous towers. With a wide selection of routes we can tailor one for you. Not only tower climbing is available but an amazing selection of short sport routes in the river canyons are easily accessible. Airfare, ground transportation, Technical climbing gear, and camping included!
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Oct 15- 16: Tieton Valley Intro to Traditional Rock Climbing $190
The Tieton (Tie-eh-ton) River crags are spread out along a twenty-mile stretch of the Tieton River drainage, on the east slope of the south Cascades. Most of the crags are andesite (similar to basalt), part of a fifty-mile long flow from the ancient Goat Rocks volcano. By some accounts it's the world's longest andesite flow. There are more than 400 routes, pretty much evenly split between trad and sport. Generally, the crags in the lower canyon (Royal Columns, the Bend, Moon Rocks) have more crack routes while the crags higher in the drainage (the Oasis, the Cave, Rainbow Rocks, Wildcat, Lava Point and South Fork) have more sport routes. Whether it's a reflection of the rock or the primary route developers, the Tieton shines at the 5.10 grade for trad routes and 5.11 grade for sport climbs. Join us for an awesome fall weekend of climbing and campfires out in the Washington southwest! Ground transportation, technical climbing gear, and camping included!

Oct 21 23: Basic Rock Course Smith Rock Weekend $300
This is where it all began. With greats like Alan Watts and the late Todd Skinner, Smith Rock is the sport climbing Mecca for the NW US! Over 1,000 routes, mostly bolted sport climbs, some Aid, and many good traditional climbs. This place is home to some of the hardest routes on earth, yet still offers challenges to climbers of all abilities. Don't miss the Monkey's Face. Three days of amazing climbing tailored for any skill level. Whether you are just learning or want a guide to help you on those multi- pitch routes this is the place. Ground transportation, technical climbing gear, and camping included!

Oct 22 23: Intro to Multi Pitch Rock $240
This class is meant for climbers wanting to follow multi-pitch climbs, build natural protection anchors, and generally progress to the next level in their climbing. Participants will practice placing and equalizing pro, and then climb a multi-pitch route. Everyone will tether in on ledges, belay both a follower and a leader, and break down an anchor. Efficient climbing technique and an introduction to crack technique is usually included as the group ascends Midway on Castle Rock or similar route. An overhanging, multi-pitch rappel and some belayed down-climbing will be part of the day, if possible. Finally, the guide will help participants improve their proficiency on more difficult climbs during a top- rope session. Body positioning, effective use of feet, rests, lie-backing, jamming, stemming, and other skills will be addressed.

Oct 29 30: Basic Rock Course Vantage Weekend $200
Vantage, along with the Leavenworth area, is the most popular rock climbing destination in the state of Washington. With over 700 routes, and new ones being put up every month, this area has plenty of challenges for the eager climber. Vantage has a good combination of sport and trad routes, and over 200 routes in the popular 5.10 range. Traditional climbing has come back into popularity recently, with many of the new routes at Green Wall and Middle East Wall being bolt free. Join us as we explore the many routes out in the great Washington desert. With so many routes there is something to climb for everyone, beginner to advance. Ground transportation, technical climbing gear, and camping included!

Nov 26 27: Basic Rock Course Leavenworth Weekend $200
Vantage, along with the Leavenworth area, is the most popular rock climbing destination in the state of Washington. With over 700 routes, and new ones being put up every month, this area has plenty of challenges for the eager climber. Vantage has a good combination of sport and trad routes, and over 200 routes in the popular 5.10 range. Traditional climbing has come back into popularity recently, with many of the new routes at Green Wall and Middle East Wall being bolt free. Join us as we explore the many routes out in the great Washington desert. With so many routes there is something to climb for everyone, beginner to advance. Ground transportation, technical climbing gear, and camping included!

Nov 28 Dec 5: Chimborazo Ecuador Summit Attempt $2700
This 8 day climbing tour of Mt. Chimborazo (6310 m), starts in Quito with an acclimatization hike of Rucu Pichincha (4698 m) with an awesome cable car ride then travels up to Otovalo market for an unforgettable cultural day. During the excursion we spend a free day in Rio Bamba. There you have the possibility to relax in the famous hot springs, do some biking or horseback riding or to visit one of the plenty waterfalls of the surroundings. All in all you pass one week of adventure in the cultural highlands, which you surely won't forget.

Dec 16 22: The Frey Argentina $3200
Tired of the Washington weather, imagine a wonderland of endless spires of quality granite bathed in alpine sun amid a backdrop of snow-capped volcanoes, enormous alpine lakes, soaring condors, and friendly natives that know how to make pizza and chocolate. Indeed such a land does exist nestled on the east side of the Andes a short steep hike up from the chocolate filled streets of Bariloche in the lake district of Argentina. Enjoy a week of amazing rock climbing in the summer of the southern hemisphere! Wonderful food and culture of South America awaits. Airfare, ground transportation, Technical climbing gear, and camping included!

Jan 7 8: Winter Scramble / Snow camping $170
Want something more than simple snowshoeing but less than technical mountaineering? This is the trip for you. We will travel to majestic Mount Rainier and head up into the amazing Tatoosh range for a moderate alpine hike. After setting up camp in the snowy meadows near Reflection Lake we will travel up to the summit of Pinnacle Peak for amazing views. This nontechnical climb up snow is moderately strenuous and requires the use of an ice axe (which we will teach you to use!). Don’t miss out on this trip in the beautiful alpine region of Washington State!

Jan 14- 17: Winter Expedition Mountaineering seminar $750
Mt. Rainier is one of the premier locations in the country for winter mountaineering. Our Expedition Skills Seminar Winter offers training and mountaineering on glaciers, and in weather and temperature conditions similar to Alaska and the Himalaya; an experience unmatched anywhere else in the U.S. After a day of technical training, we begin our ascent to Camp Muir where we use the mountain hut as our base while learning mountaineering skills oriented toward cold weather, high altitude expedition climbing, avalanche forecasting, and avalanche rescue. If weather and climbing conditions allow, we make our summit attempt via the Ingraham Glacier as the culmination of our winter mountaineering experience. This is the premiere training event prior to a summit attempt on Denali!

Jan 21: Avalanche Awareness Day trip $95
If you travel in the backcountry in winter conditions, then the statistical probability of encountering an avalanche jumps dramatically. Indeed, every single person who spends time in the mountains in a winter context will encounter avalanche terrain and avalanche conditions. Come join us for an instructional day on skis or snowboards and learn all about avalanche awareness today! Ground transportation, backcountry ski or split snowboard, avalanche beacon, shovel, probe, and airbag included!

Jan 28: Backcountry Skiing or Snowboarding Yodelin/Skyline $100
Winter is here! Yodelin up near Stevens pass is an exceptional backcountry area where you can choose the terrain dependent on your skill. Whether it is open glades, steep drops, or tree skiing Yodelin has it. Skyline ridge across from Stevens pass is an exceptional area for easy touring and fun runs through the trees. For the more confident skiers or boarders Tye peak offers a great ride on true alpine terrain. Let our guides lead you on an adventure. Ground transportation, backcountry ski or split snowboard, avalanche beacon, shovel, probe, and airbag included!

Feb 4 -5, 11-12: Basic Alpine Climbing Course $250
During this course, one receives hands-on climbing and climber's safety training in Washington's glorious Cascade Range (as seen in the slideshow above). Unlike Rainier, the Cascades is part of a huge mountain range with scores of peaks topping 8,000 feet, upwards of 400 glaciers, and countless permanent snowfields. This program is designed for the beginner or intermediate climber who wishes to develop strong fundamental skills in all aspects of snow and glacier climbing as well as rock climbing. It serves as a prerequisite for many of our basic-level climbs and is a stepping stone to more technically difficult mountains, including Denali. This course has served as a springboard to many climbing careers, including numerous Everest summiteers, and has developed a foundation of skills for hundreds of independent climbers. Taught over two weekends the first half is classroom based skill sessions. The following weekend is an overnight field skills practice on the slopes of Mt Rainier.

Feb 16 20: Lake Louise Canada Ice Climbing $925
The Canadian Rockies offers world-class waterfall ice climbing near Banff National Park, Lake Louise, Canmore & Kananaskis Country. Whether you are an experienced ice climber looking for a new challenge or a beginner looking for a lesson, we can set you up to fully experience this exhilarating winter sport! With five days to explore the amazing Lake Louise area we will get the chance to climb in some extraordinary mountain terrain. We will stay in the city hostel in the center of the town of Lake Louise. After a great day of climbing you can relax your night away with this ski town’s amazing night life. Boasting several excellent dance spots and quaint pubs you’re sure to have a blast.

Feb 25-26, Mar 4 5: Basic Alpine Climbing Course $250
During this course, one receives hands-on climbing and climber's safety training in Washington's glorious Cascade Range (as seen in the slideshow above). Unlike Rainier, the Cascades is part of a huge mountain range with scores of peaks topping 8,000 feet, upwards of 400 glaciers, and countless permanent snowfields. This program is designed for the beginner or intermediate climber who wishes to develop strong fundamental skills in all aspects of snow and glacier climbing as well as rock climbing. It serves as a prerequisite for many of our basic-level climbs and is a stepping stone to more technically difficult mountains, including Denali. This course has served as a springboard to many climbing careers, including numerous Everest summiteers, and has developed a foundation of skills for hundreds of independent climbers. Taught over two weekends the first half is classroom based skill sessions. The following weekend is an overnight field skills practice on the slopes of Mt Rainier.

Mar 9 12: Red Rocks Nevada Rock Climbing $975
Guided Rock climbing in the Red Rock of Las Vegas, Nevada offers thousands of varied rock climbs, from small cliffs to thousand foot multi-pitch outings, with comfortable ledges, lofty summits, and great views. The sandstone formations in the area are highly featured. This makes for great hand holds with plenty of edges and holes to rock climb on. The best easy to moderate multi-pitch rock climbing routes in the world, combined with Nevada’s mild winters, great fall and spring temperatures, and proximity to the Las Vegas strip, make for a world class, year round, international rock climbing destination for beginners and experts. Escape the winter with a sunny trip to Red Rocks! Airfare, ground transportation, Technical climbing gear, and camping included!

Mar 18: Backcountry skiing or snowboarding Pineapple Pass $95
Winter is here! Pineapple pass up at Snoqualmie pass is an exceptional backcountry area where you can choose the terrain dependent on your skill. Whether its open glades, steep drops, or wide open chutes Pineapple has it. For the more confident skiers or boarders nearby peaks offer a great ride on true alpine terrain. Let our guides lead you on an adventure. Ground transportation, backcountry ski or split snowboard, avalanche beacon, shovel, probe, and airbag included.

Mar 19: Avalanche Awareness Tye Peak Backcountry Ski or Snowboarding $100
If you travel in the backcountry in winter conditions, then the statistical probability of encountering an avalanche jumps dramatically. Indeed, every single person who spends time in the mountains in a winter context will encounter avalanche terrain and avalanche conditions. Come join us for an instructional day on skis or snowboards and learn all about avalanche awareness today! Tye peak is an amazing place to see much varied terrain and learn about avalanches. Ground transportation, backcountry ski or split snowboard, avalanche beacon, shovel, probe, and airbag included!

Mar 25 -26, Apr 1-2: Basic Alpine Climbing Course $250
During this course, one receives hands-on climbing and climber's safety training in Washington's glorious Cascade Range (as seen in the slideshow above). Unlike Rainier, the Cascades is part of a huge mountain range with scores of peaks topping 8,000 feet, upwards of 400 glaciers, and countless permanent snowfields. This program is designed for the beginner or intermediate climber who wishes to develop strong fundamental skills in all aspects of snow and glacier climbing as well as rock climbing. It serves as a prerequisite for many of our basic-level climbs and is a stepping stone to more technically difficult mountains, including Denali. This course has served as a springboard to many climbing careers, including numerous Everest summiteers, and has developed a foundation of skills for hundreds of independent climbers. Taught over two weekends the first half is classroom based skill sessions. The following weekend is an overnight field skills practice on the slopes of Mt Rainier.

Apr 8-9, 15-16: Intermediate Alpine Course $350
The 4-Day Intermediate Mountaineering course is an incredible opportunity to learn advanced alpine climbing topics in North Cascades. The focus of the course is climbing steep snow, ice, rock and mixed terrain, in addition to glacier travel. The wilderness of the North Cascades provides the ideal training ground due to the variety of terrain that is available. The goal of this course is that graduating students should be able to climb non-technical glaciated mountains with short sections of moderately technical terrain safely. It also provides an excellent advanced preparation guided ascents of Liberty Ridge of Mount Rainier, the Matterhorn, Denali, Mount Vinson and Cho Oyu. During this course we focus on objective and subjective safety, advanced climbing techniques, technical climbing in alpine terrain, and climbing team assessments.

May 5- 7: Mt. Adams, South Spur Route $750
Mount Adams, situated in the eastern Cascade Range, east of Mount Saint Helens and north of Mount Hood, is the second most massive and the third tallest volcano in the Cascade Range. The South Spur route is a nontechnical glacier climb often done in three days. It is an excellent training and conditioning climb for Mount Rainier preparation. While often called a neglected mountain, this is debatable. During an early summer weekend, the Mount Adams Ranger Station recently issued Cascade Volcano Passes for over 350 people. Most of these people stay close to the South Spur described below. Be careful of rock falls, especially on the headwall routes - there's a reason why most Mount Adams headwall routes remain unrepeated.

May 10- 29: Denali Expedition $5000 / $6750
Formerly known as Mount McKinley, the highest mountain in North America has been the goal of aspiring high altitude climbers since it was first climbed in 1913. Its reputation as a highly coveted summit derives from its location near the Arctic Circle and the Pacific Ocean (Gulf of Alaska) giving it some of the most ferocious weather in the world. Because of its notorious weather and ease of access, some climbers use Denali as a training ground for climbing the 8,000 meter peaks of the Himalaya and for extended expeditions in the Arctic or Antarctic. And for all you peakbaggers out there, Denali is the highpoint of the Denali Borough, the state of Alaska, the United States, the Alaska Range, and North America.
Denali offers one of the world's greatest expedition challenges. While it is exceeded in elevation by peaks in South America and Asia, its great height above the Alaskan plain make it a severe test of personal strength, team work, and logistics. No peak in the world has greater relief: Denali rises 17,000 feet above its surrounding plain, Kilimanjaro 14,000 feet, and Everest 13,000 feet. Vertical elevation gain on Everest from the normal base camp for the South Col route is 11,000 feet; from the landing spot on the Kahiltna Glacier Denali's summit rises another 13,000 feet. Further, the mountain (and all mountains this far north or south) behaves like it's taller than it really is --- the reason being that the barometric pressure in the northern/southern latitudes is less than at the equator which makes climbers feel higher than they really are.
West Buttress and the climb is undoubtedly considered as an exceptional mountaineering challenge. Nowhere in the world does one travel with so much gear over so much vertical in such a hostile environment. Although there are no technically difficult sections on the route, many stretches of "The Butt" leave very little margin for error (the lower glacier in warm conditions, Windy Corner, the Autobahn, Denali Pass, and the Summit Ridge). Furthermore, the West Buttress is just as exposed as any other route to Denali's legendary weather. Prospective climbers should be highly competent in travel on moderately steep snow/ice slopes and exposed traverses.

Jun 2- 5: Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier route $750
Mount Baker is a spectacular volcano in the North Cascades that offers excellent mountaineering to beginners and experts, alike. Baker tantalizes the residents of Seattle on clear days and stuns ferry passengers in the San Juan Islands. Located only 55 km inland from sea level at Bellingham the volcano has dramatic relief. Mount Baker also achieves prominence as the 3rd highest summit in the state of Washington and as the iciest mountain in the Cascade Range. An unbelievable annual snowfall (world record of ~30 meters in 1998) sustains more than 100 square kilometers of glaciers and permanent snow fields. Consequently, crevasses are a major danger, dictating that all parties be proficient at glacier travel and rescue. Avalanche danger is commonly high because the notoriously variable weather can create unstable snow, even on moderate slopes. Despite these risks, Mount Baker is an excellent first volcano for those learning to climb on snow and ice. When weather and glacial conditions are right, the ascents can be straightforward and relatively non-technical. Ice fills the summit crater, creating a broad, rounded summit that allows beginners to relax and enjoy the views.

Jun 7 26: Denali Expedition $5000 / $6750
Formerly known as Mount McKinley, the highest mountain in North America has been the goal of aspiring high altitude climbers since it was first climbed in 1913. Its reputation as a highly coveted summit derives from its location near the Arctic Circle and the Pacific Ocean (Gulf of Alaska) giving it some of the most ferocious weather in the world. Because of its notorious weather and ease of access, some climbers use Denali as a training ground for climbing the 8,000 meter peaks of the Himalaya and for extended expeditions in the Arctic or Antarctic. And for all you peakbaggers out there, Denali is the highpoint of the Denali Borough, the state of Alaska, the United States, the Alaska Range, and North America.
Denali offers one of the world's greatest expedition challenges. While it is exceeded in elevation by peaks in South America and Asia, its great height above the Alaskan plain make it a severe test of personal strength, team work, and logistics. No peak in the world has greater relief: Denali rises 17,000 feet above its surrounding plain, Kilimanjaro 14,000 feet, and Everest 13,000 feet. Vertical elevation gain on Everest from the normal base camp for the South Col route is 11,000 feet; from the landing spot on the Kahiltna Glacier Denali's summit rises another 13,000 feet. Further, the mountain (and all mountains this far north or south) behaves like it's taller than it really is --- the reason being that the barometric pressure in the northern/southern latitudes is less than at the equator which makes climbers feel higher than they really are.
West Buttress and the climb is undoubtedly considered as an exceptional mountaineering challenge. Nowhere in the world does one travel with so much gear over so much vertical in such a hostile environment. Although there are no technically difficult sections on the route, many stretches of "The Butt" leave very little margin for error (the lower glacier in warm conditions, Windy Corner, the Autobahn, Denali Pass, and the Summit Ridge). Furthermore, the West Buttress is just as exposed as any other route to Denali's legendary weather. Prospective climbers should be highly competent in travel on moderately steep snow/ice slopes and exposed traverses.

Jul 1 4: Mount Rainier Emmons Glacier $750
A climb through the wilderness of the Emmons Glacier Route on Mount Rainier. A stunning hike up through the high sub-alpine meadows along White River and onto the famous Emmons Glacier. Two nights of camping at historic Camp Schurman allow for acclimatization. A summit attempt on the second night will lead you across the Emmons glacier and up onto the majestic summit cone at 12,000 feet. Weather dependent grand views from the summit await after a short walk across the crater.

Jul 13 16: Mount Rainier Kautz Glacier $750
A climb up the sub-alpine meadows of Paradise and across the majestic Nisqually Glacier of Mount Rainier. A stunning hike across the lower Nisqually Glacier and up the slopes of the small Wilson Glacier to camp one at 9,000 feet ends day one. The second day opens with a climb up the open slopes of the Turtle Snowfield to the airy ridgeline of camp two at 11,000 feet. A summit attempt on the second night will lead you up the steep ice of the Kautz ice chute and up onto the majestic summit cone at 12,000 feet. Weather dependent grand views from the summit await after a short walk across the crater. An exciting descent down the iconic Disappointment Cleaver and down to the historic Camp Muir completes the third day. The fourth day leads you down the Muir Snowfield and completes your southern loop of Mount Rainier.

Jul 28- 29: Mount Rainier 24hour Climb, Disappointment Cleaver $750
Want an incredible challenge? Let’s climb up the iconic Disappointment Cleaver Route of Mount Rainier nonstop in a day! A stunning evening hike up through the high sub-alpine meadows of Paradise and onto the famous Muir snowfield. A short stop at historic Camp Muir for quick refueling and putting on our technical gear then off across the Cowlitz enroute to the summit. Topping out in the early morning we will refill our water snap a photo and head back down to the parking lot! This is a light and fast climb with no more than fifteen pounds of gear and the intent to sleep when we get home. Are you up for the challenge!! Experience required and guide approval mandatory, but hey give it shot its bound to be a good time.

Aug 3- 7: Mount Olympus Blue Glacier $750
This incredible adventure takes you into the Olympic Mountains through one of the last remaining true old growth rainforests in the continental United States. The Olympic National Park is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site and as such is in the company of such wonders as the pyramids of Egypt, the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, and the Great Barrier Reef in Australia. Our journey begins by hiking through impressive old growth, eventually arriving at a view of the heavily glaciated summit of Mount Olympus. The approach hike along the Hoh River is long but virtually flat, giving us ample opportunity to appreciate the beauty and diversity of the surrounding terrain.
While reaching the 7,962 foot high summit of the mountain is one objective of this trip, the abundance and diversity of natural beauty experienced on this trip make it perhaps the most complete and rewarding mountain experience we offer in the Northwest. From our camp at Glacier Meadows, we will explore the various features of the 3.8 mile-long Blue Glacier and learn the necessary glacier travel skills for our ascent. Our climbing route takes us to the top of the Snow Dome, where two large glaciers originate, and then on to the summit pyramid where we scramble up rock of moderate difficulty.

Aug 12 -14: Disappointment Cleaver $750
A climb up the iconic Disappointment Cleaver Route of Mount Rainier. A stunning hike up through the high sub-alpine meadows of Paradise and onto the famous Muir snowfield. Two nights of camping at historic Camp Muir allow for acclimatization. A summit attempt on the second night will lead you across the Cowlitz and Ingraham glaciers and up onto the majestic summit cone at 12,000 feet. Weather dependent grand views from the summit await after a short walk across the crater.

Aug 18 20: Disappointment Cleaver $750
A climb up the iconic Disappointment Cleaver Route of Mount Rainier. A stunning hike up through the high sub-alpine meadows of Paradise and onto the famous Muir snowfield. Two nights of camping at historic Camp Muir allow for acclimatization. A summit attempt on the second night will lead you across the Cowlitz and Ingraham glaciers and up onto the majestic summit cone at 12,000 feet. Weather dependent grand views from the summit await after a short walk across the crater.

Sep 1- 5: Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Route $750
Glacier Peak is one of the five volcanoes of the state of Washington, and is the highest mountain in Snohomish County. It has 7498 feet of prominence and ranks 5th highest on the Bulgar List (Washington Top 100). It is located in the North Central part of the Cascades which it has a wilderness named after this mountain which is called the Glacier Peak Wilderness. The Native Americans once called this peak Takobia which would translate to "The Great Parent". This peak is classified as a stratovolcanoes (Composite) which there has not been any major activity in 300 years. This peak goes unnoticed by much of the people of the Northwest due to it being so far in the crest of the Cascades, its distance from the nearest town, and the fact that its access roads have been washed out making all the approaches to its base a long hike in. Glacier Peak can be seen from many locations along the Mountain Loop Highway, North Cascades, Highway 2 area, and many other high points throughout the state.

Oct 7- 8: Roktober Fest Leavenworth 3 Day Climb $195
Join us for a trip to beautiful Leavenworth Washington’s Icicle canyon for a three day rock climbing trip. The rock is dark granite with lots of slabs and cracks. Most routes along Icicle Road are within walking distance. There are routes for all ability levels here leads as well as mellow topropes. One favorite is Snow Creek Wall about 2 miles up the Snow Creek trail offering longer climbs and longer approach. After a day of climbing we will head up to town and enjoy the opening days of Oktober Fest, Leavenworth’s famous fall celebration. Ground transportation, technical climbing gear, and camping included!

Oct 13- 15: Roktober Fest Leavenworth 3 Day Climb $275
Join us for a trip to beautiful Leavenworth Washington’s Icicle canyon for a three day rock climbing trip. The rock is dark granite with lots of slabs and cracks. Most routes along Icicle Road are within walking distance. There are routes for all ability levels here leads as well as mellow topropes. One favorite is Snow Creek Wall about 2 miles up the Snow Creek trail offering longer climbs and longer approach. After a day of climbing we will head up to town and enjoy the opening days of Oktober Fest, Leavenworth’s famous fall celebration. Ground transportation, technical climbing gear, and camping included!

Oct 19- 25: Moab Utah Desert Tower Climbing $1900
The Fisher Towers are one of the most outstanding scenic features of Utah's Colorado Riverway. These rock pinnacles soar above a maze of red and purple hued canyons. Join us for an amazing trip to climb some of these famous towers. With a wide selection of routes we can tailor one for you. Not only tower climbing is available but an amazing selection of short sport routes in the river canyons are easily accessible. Airfare, ground transportation, Technical climbing gear, and camping included!

Oct 21- 22: Tieton Valley Intro to Traditional Rock Climbing $190
The Tieton (Tie-eh-ton) River crags are spread out along a twenty-mile stretch of the Tieton River drainage, on the east slope of the south Cascades. Most of the crags are andesite (similar to basalt), part of a fifty-mile long flow from the ancient Goat Rocks volcano. By some accounts it's the world's longest andesite flow. There are more than 400 routes, pretty much evenly split between trad and sport. Generally, the crags in the lower canyon (Royal Columns, the Bend, Moon Rocks) have more crack routes while the crags higher in the drainage (the Oasis, the Cave, Rainbow Rocks, Wildcat, Lava Point and South Fork) have more sport routes. Whether it's a reflection of the rock or the primary route developers, the Tieton shines at the 5.10 grade for trad routes and 5.11 grade for sport climbs. Join us for an awesome fall weekend of climbing and campfires out in the Washington southwest! Ground transportation, technical climbing gear, and camping included!

Oct 27- 29: Basic Rock Course Smith Rock Weekend $300
This is where it all began. With greats like Alan Watts and the late Todd Skinner, Smith Rock is the sport climbing Mecca for the NW US! Over 1,000 routes, mostly bolted sport climbs, some Aid, and many good traditional climbs. This place is home to some of the hardest routes on earth, yet still offers challenges to climbers of all abilities. Don't miss the Monkey's Face. Three days of amazing climbing tailored for any skill level. Whether you are just learning or want a guide to help you on those multi- pitch routes this is the place. Ground transportation, technical climbing gear, and camping included!

For more information or to send the registration for email us at JBLMalpineclub@gmail.com
You can request registration by filling out the attached registration request form and emailing it. We will register people in the order that the requests are received. Thank you for your interest in the JBLM Alpine Program and I look forward to climbing with you all! 

Wednesday, August 24, 2016

As the season ends.

Greetings!

The summer climbing season is coming to a close.  We have had the pleasure of climbing with some truly remarkable people.  It has been very successful with fifty people going on seven climbs of

Rainier, one of Baker, one of Silver Star, and an Alpine Rock climb up Early Winter Spire.  We have averaged a sixty percent success rate which is right in line with standard commercial climbs.  Our Basic Alpine Climbing Course was extremely popular!  This year we instructed over sixty people in the basics of rope team member skills for glaciated climbing.

Wait!  The summer isn't quite over yet.  The Fall season is for rock climbing in Washington.  If you don't want to let the sunshine go yet then head out with us to Eastern Washington for a Basic Rock Climbing Course weekend.  The moderate temperature and cool days are perfect for rock climbing and campfires.  There is also Oktober fest coming up and we will be headed to Leavenworth Washington for an amazing weekend.  Rock climb during the day and enjoy Oktober fest in the evening!  Sounds like a great time to get outside.

Thank you to all the amazing people who participated.  You have made the Alpine Program a great success!  The staff and guides of the Alpine Program are very excited to continue to provide this amazing opportunity and service for our Armed Forces and DoD Family.  In that regard we are working diligently to prepare the schedule for 2017.  Our winter expedition training and Rainier summit attempt in January is already on the calendar!  If your interested in learning to climb big mountains don't miss out on this great course.  We are excited to have the Basic Alpine course start back up in February, Intermediate course in April, and the build up to Denali in May.

If your interested in international trips we have a few scheduled for the southern hemispheres Summer.  The trip to Ecuador for an attempt on the countries highest mountain, Chimborazo, is on the calendar for December.  Rock climbing in Argentina's incredible Frey mountains near Patagonia is scheduled for January.   If your interested in winter activities we will have an ice climbing trip to Banff and Lake Louise as well as several avalanche awareness courses.

Our full calendar will be released to all Alpine Club members in November so you have a full month to get early registration for all our trips.  The popularity of this years Mt. Rainier trips indicates that we will sell out fast so plan ahead and don't miss out.  Also keep in mind that we do private trips.  The best way to get a climb on the date you want is to get a few friends together and sign up all at once for a personalized climb.  As long as you have at least three people the cost is exactly the same as advertised climbs.


Wednesday, April 27, 2016

The climbing season is finally upon us!  In a few short days I will make this seasons first attempt up Rainer to check out the conditions of the glacier and routes.  Hopefully with this winter's good snowfall the mountain will be in great shape.  The things I will be looking for are general snow level, camp site locations, route locations, rockfall hazard, bergschrund locations, and crevasse melt out.  All those things will effect the route decisions and general path that the routes follow this year.    It should be a great season!

Also coming up quickly is the Mount Baker summit attempt on the Easton Glacier 19 May.  We will be spending four days up there making our way towards the summit and practicing skills.  There is a spot or two still open if you want to join the trip!  It is a great introduction to big mountain climbing and will be a true test of your skills.

If your planning to attempt one of our big mountains this year be sure to step up your fitness training. Just jogging a few miles week will not prepare you for the epic endurance climb of the mountains in Washington.  If you have any questions feel free to contact us.  There is several training plans online and the twelve week plan is pretty good.  You really just need to be able to carry a pack uphill all day and still have a bit in reserve for unexpected situations.

Our first two Rainier trips are full but there is several opportunities still available later in the season.  Don't miss out on this years climbs and contact us if you have questions.

Wednesday, April 6, 2016

Greetings everybody!  Spring is officially upon us and things are heating up!  Our fourth climbing course is in progress and doing great.  Don't forget those knots...  We went up to Camp Muir to check out the conditions and so far everything seems to be shaping up well for the season.  There were several ski mountaineering teams headed up to the summit taking advantage of the sunny weekend.  Remember if you make the trip in the next few weeks that the weather can change very rapidly this time of year.  Be prepared with some layers and tough outer shells.  Also always take more water and food than you anticipate needing.  A local snowshoer got caught on the snowfield in the weather and suffered some minor frostbite.  Despite the amazing sunny day it can sneak up on you out there.  


If you want to get ahold of me remember to use the jblmalpineclub email.  As the season progresses I will be in the office less and less and up on Rainier more.  I will try to get any questions and concerns answered as quickly as possible but your patience is greatly appreciated.  Of course feel free to stop by the NAC, unless your question is technical in nature most of the staff knows how to get you an answer.


Or times are filling up rapidly as people sign up or request blocks of time for personal climbs.  If you want a private non advertised climb you should act soon!  So far August looks pretty empty but July is getting very busy.  As always let us know how to better get you what you want and feel free to ask about climbing on other peaks.

Hope to see you out there!

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

Avalanche danger!!



Greetings all on this wonderful Tuesday morning. Just wanted to send out a quick reminder to check the avalanche danger before you head into the mountains.

A strong Pacific frontal system blew through the Cascades mid-day Sunday. A few inches of wet snow accumulated through the early afternoon above 4000 feet, but the strong winds were the main story Sunday. The most significant transport winds were from the W-SW and seen in the early afternoon post-frontal passage with gusts in the 40s or 50s below or near treeline with much stronger winds above treeline. By Monday morning, 4-12 inches of new snow had accumulated along the west slopes accompanied by a cooling trend.

This means that wind slabs are a very real danger out there and will likely persist for a bit.

Remember that the first period of above freezing temperatures is typically when spring avalanches occur. These are a result of free water loosening up the snow pack. Wet loose avalanches carry a lot of kinetic energy and hit you with surprising power.

Typically in Washington snow stops accumulating in mid april and the snow pack begins to decrease. That will bring great spring skiing and potential wet avalanche hazards.


Check out NWAC 
http://www.nwac.us for the most up to date info out there. Be safe and have fun!


Thursday, February 25, 2016

Club Nalgene Bottles!

Good news we finally got our club stickers!  The Nalgene bottles are ready to be picked up whenever you have a chance to stop by.  Don't worry we have enough
and you can also get yours the next time you go on a trip with us if you don't stop by the center (we know it's kinda out of the way...).  They look great and hopefully you'll take it out with you in the mountains and scratch it up good!  

Monday, February 15, 2016

Welcome to the unofficial blog for the DoD MWR Alpine Club located on Joint Base Lewis McChord Washington!  This is a forum where information can be passed on about various programs, trips, courses, and routes for the Military community in Washington.  Please adhere to our simple posting standards and feel free to ask question, seek partners, and ask for unofficial meetups, training, and experience.  Take a look around and if the information you seek isn't on the page let us know.

The weather is changing and the conditions are variable.  So far this season we have done two basic alpine mountaineering courses and had several backcountry skiing trips.  All have gone very well and everyone is very excited about the coming summer climbing.  Come see us about opportunities to explore the amazing alpine terrain in Washington and beyond!  Hope to see you in the mountains!